Visiting Sachsenhausen

 

Visiting Sachsenhausen: A Comprehensive Guide to the Concentration Camp Memorial

When visiting Berlin, many travelers choose to confront one of the darkest chapters in human history by visiting a former Nazi concentration camp. Located just north of Berlin in the town of Oranienburg, the Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp Memorial provides a somber and educational experience that helps visitors understand the horrors of the Holocaust and the Nazi regime. This post offers a comprehensive guide to visiting Sachsenhausen, the history behind it, and practical information for your visit.

The History of Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp

Establishment and Function

Sachsenhausen was built in 1936 as one of the first new concentration camps established after Heinrich Himmler became Chief of German Police. It was strategically located just 35 kilometers north of Berlin in Oranienburg, allowing the SS to oversee operations directly from the capital. The camp was designed to set a standard for other concentration camps, both in its construction and organization.

Originally designed to hold political prisoners, Sachsenhausen's prisoner population eventually included Jews, homosexuals, Jehovah's Witnesses, "asocials," and, after 1939, prisoners of war from various countries occupied by Nazi Germany. Unlike extermination camps such as Auschwitz-Birkenau, Sachsenhausen was primarily a work camp, though thousands still died from exhaustion, disease, malnutrition, pneumonia, exposure, execution, and medical experiments.

The triangular layout of the camp was designed to allow a minimum number of guards to control the maximum number of prisoners. A single machine gun post at the main entrance gate could cover all the barracks. The infamous inscription "Arbeit Macht Frei" ("Work Sets You Free") was emblazoned on the entrance gate, a cruel mockery of the prisoners' true fate.

Life in the Camp

Prisoners at Sachsenhausen lived in extremely harsh conditions. Forced to work in construction projects and armaments factories, many were literally worked to death. The SS established more than 100 subcamps near industrial complexes across northern Germany, using the prisoners for slave labor.

The camp featured a "shoe-testing track" where prisoners were forced to test military footwear by marching 40 km daily over different surfaces. Many died during these tests. Sachsenhausen also contained medical facilities where barbaric experiments were conducted on prisoners without their consent.

In total, approximately 200,000 people were imprisoned in Sachsenhausen between 1936 and 1945. Tens of thousands died from exhaustion, disease, malnutrition, pneumonia, and mistreatment. Others were systematically murdered. In 1941, over 13,000 Soviet POWs were executed at the camp. Many Jewish prisoners were also sent from Sachsenhausen to extermination camps in the East.

Liberation and Soviet Use

In April 1945, as the Red Army approached, the SS forced over 30,000 prisoners on a death march. Those too weak to continue were shot. The camp was liberated by Soviet and Polish troops on April 22, 1945, who found only about 3,000 ill and starving prisoners remaining.

The story of Sachsenhausen did not end with liberation, however. From 1945 to 1950, the Soviet NKVD (later KGB) used the camp as "Special Camp No. 7" to house political prisoners, former Nazi party members, and alleged opponents of Soviet occupation. Approximately 60,000 people were detained during this period, with around 12,000 dying from malnutrition and disease.

The Town of Oranienburg: A Brief History

Oranienburg has a long history that predates its dark association with the Holocaust. The town was founded in the 13th century as Bötzow and received its current name in 1652 when Friedrich Wilhelm, the Great Elector of Brandenburg, renamed it after his wife, Louise Henriette of Orange-Nassau (Oranien in German).

In the 17th and 18th centuries, the town flourished as the site of a royal residence, with the beautiful Oranienburg Palace serving as a summer retreat for the Prussian royal family. The baroque palace, designed by Johann Arnold Nering, remains one of the oldest baroque structures in Brandenburg and is open to visitors today.

Oranienburg's modern history took a dark turn in March 1933 when the Nazis established one of the first concentration camps, the SA-run Oranienburg camp, in an abandoned brewery in the town center. This early camp operated until 1934 and was later replaced by the much larger Sachsenhausen camp built on the outskirts of town.

The town itself suffered significant damage during World War II, particularly from Allied bombing raids targeting local factories and military installations. After the war, Oranienburg became part of East Germany and underwent socialist reconstruction.

Since German reunification in 1990, Oranienburg has been revitalized. While acknowledging its difficult past through the Sachsenhausen Memorial, the town has also restored its historic center and palace. Today, Oranienburg is a quiet suburb of Berlin with approximately 45,000 residents, balancing commemoration of its past with forward-looking development.

The Memorial Today

After the Soviet camp closed in 1950, parts of the camp were demolished. In 1956, during the East German era, the Sachsenhausen National Memorial was established on part of the former camp site. Following German reunification, the memorial was redesigned and expanded to provide a more comprehensive historical account, including information about the Soviet camp that had previously been downplayed.

Today, the Sachsenhausen Memorial and Museum covers much of the original camp area. Visitors can see:

• The preserved and reconstructed entrance gate with the "Arbeit Macht Frei" sign
• The roll-call area where prisoners were counted daily
• Barracks 38 and 39, which now house exhibitions
• The prison building ("Zellenbau")
• The pathology building and Station Z, the execution area
• The infirmary
• The industrial yard
• Various national memorials erected for victims from different countries
• The Museum of the Memorial, with extensive documentation and artifacts

The memorial site functions as both a museum and a place of remembrance. It aims to document the history of the camp comprehensively, preserve the physical remains as evidence of Nazi crimes, commemorate the victims, and educate visitors about this dark chapter of German history.

Practical Information for Visitors

Getting to Sachsenhausen from Berlin

Sachsenhausen is easily accessible from Berlin via public transportation:

1. By Train: Take the S-Bahn S1 line (direction Oranienburg) from central Berlin to Oranienburg station. The journey takes approximately 50 minutes from the city center.

2. From Oranienburg Station: Upon arriving at Oranienburg station, you have two options:

   • Take bus #804 to the "Gedenkstätte" (Memorial) stop, which takes about 10 minutes.
   • Walk to the memorial, which takes approximately 20-25 minutes. Follow the signs marked "KZ-Gedenkstätte" (Concentration Camp Memorial).

3. Alternative Route: You can also take Regional Express trains (RE5) from Berlin Hauptbahnhof or Gesundbrunnen to Oranienburg, which are slightly faster than the S-Bahn.

Tip: If using Berlin public transportation, consider purchasing a Berlin ABC ticket, as Oranienburg is in Zone C. A day pass (Tageskarte ABC) is often the most economical option for this journey.

Visiting Hours and Admission

• The memorial grounds are open daily:

  • March to October: 8:30 AM to 6:00 PM
  • November to February: 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM
  • Closed on December 24 and 31

• The museums and exhibitions are open:

  • Tuesday to Sunday: 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM (March to October)
  • Tuesday to Sunday: 10:00 AM to 4:30 PM (November to February)
  • Closed on Mondays

• Admission to the memorial site and permanent exhibitions is free.

• Audio guides are available for a small fee and are highly recommended.

• Guided tours in English are offered at specific times for a fee.

Visiting Tips

1. Time Needed: Allow at least 3-4 hours for your visit to properly experience the memorial and exhibitions.

2. Guided Tours: Consider joining a guided tour for deeper insights. The memorial offers its own tours, or you can book a tour from Berlin that includes transportation.

3. Respectful Behavior: Remember that this is a place where thousands suffered and died. Dress and behave appropriately. Photography is permitted in most areas but should be done respectfully.

4. Weather Preparation: Much of the site is outdoors, so dress according to the weather and wear comfortable walking shoes.

5. Emotional Impact: Visiting Sachsenhausen can be emotionally challenging. The exhibitions contain graphic images and descriptions of the atrocities committed there. Be prepared for this emotional experience.

6. Limited Facilities: There is a small café at the visitor center, but options are limited. Consider bringing water and snacks.

7. Accessibility: Parts of the memorial have been adapted for visitors with limited mobility, but due to the historical nature of the site, not all areas are easily accessible.

Reflecting on Your Visit

A visit to Sachsenhausen is not simply tourism; it is an educational experience and an act of remembrance. The memorial serves as a powerful reminder of where hatred, prejudice, and authoritarianism can lead if left unchecked.

When planning your itinerary, consider scheduling some lighter activities for after your visit to process the experience. Many visitors find it valuable to set aside time for reflection, whether through a quiet walk, writing in a journal, or discussing their thoughts with travel companions.

By visiting Sachsenhausen, you participate in the important work of ensuring that the victims are not forgotten and that the lessons of this dark period in history continue to be learned by new generations.

The philosopher George Santayana's words, which are inscribed at many Holocaust memorials, remain relevant: "Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it." A visit to Sachsenhausen helps ensure that we do remember, and in remembering, commit ourselves to preventing such atrocities from happening again.